![]() ![]() The roots may disrupt driveways and sidewalks as they grow. They will not tolerate salt or drought very well. A location that dries out quickly is not best for this maple tree. They tolerate a range of soil types, and they do best with adequate water. These trees prefer part shade but will grow in full sun. The first consideration is to find the best spot for growing an October Glory tree. October Glory red maple care is similar to care for any maple. In the fall, expect to see showy shades of yellow, orange, and red. In the spring, this red maple will produce pretty red flowers and will attract birds and squirrels with its seeds in the summer. In areas to the south of its range, the trees grow shorter and need regular irrigation or a wet soil. ![]() October Glory grows to a height of 40 to 50 feet (12-15 m.). If you need a tree that will grow fairly quickly and fill out some space with great color in the fall, this is a good choice. October Glory red maples are also popular because they grow vigorously and easily. There are several cultivars of red maple, Acer rubrum, and ‘October Glory’ is a popular one for its spectacular display of fall color. Although it does best in temperate climates, it can grow in the warm south with extra water and will provide spring flowers, spectacular fall color, and quick growth. For an ornamental, fast-growing tree with great fall color, it’s hard to beat the ‘October Glory’ cultivar of red maple. You can read more about girdling roots at this page. I would begin making plans now to replace it when it no longer provides enough shade or beauty for your yard. The tree will continue to slowly decline and die back over the next couple of years. If you cut them, there may not be any other roots to take over keeping the tree alive. You could cut the girdling roots (although you will need to excavate downward at least a foot or two to find them all), but the problem is, these are probably the major remaining live roots of the tree. There is no way to fix this problem once the symptoms start showing up. This indicates that the roots and vascular tissue that should have been growing and expanding on that side are being restricted. It goes into the ground straight, almost like a telephone pole. Note the way that the trunk on that side doesn't flare outwards, like a normal tree. Since that root is embedded in the soil, it can't be pushed out of the way, and so the tree begins to strangle itself. After a few years, the trunk expands (by adding rings) to the point where it contacts the sideways-growing root. The roots, instead of extending outward into the compacted soil of the rest of the yard, begin to grow around and around the inside of the planting hole.like a houseplant will if it's been kept in a pot too long. ![]() Roots grow where it's easy, and many times, we make the planting HOLE the easiest place to grow, instead of the rest of the yard. Girdling roots form most often from improper planting. In fact, that little strip of live wood beneath the open wound appears to be a sideways root. The surface roots on the left side of the trunk don't grow outwards away from the tree, but appear to be heading in a circle to surround and choke the tree. It appears that your tree has a trunk-girdling root. There may have been a physical injury there, although I think the rest of the picture indicates another possibility. ![]() The damaged section of the lower trunk is one part of the problem. The picture of the lower trunk shows me a few things that I believe are the cause of your problem. Thank you for sending the pictures! It certainly helps with diagnosing the problem. ![]()
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